Frequently asked questions:
How many Master Swords are you making? What’s the current wait time?
I don’t have a hard limit on how many I’m planning to make, and different variants take different amount of time. The bronze hilts take about a month to return from the foundry, a few hours of hands-on touch-up, and then another few weeks at the powder coater. The blades take the longest time, with weeks between sourcing material, getting it cut, ground and machined, polishing, and engraving. Resin hilts are quick to cast, but take a lot of hands-on time to fix flaws, file, sand, prime and paint. I’m hoping to get the first set of orders done in 3-4 months.
How long does it take you to make one of these? How many man-hours?
It’s easy to sink over a dozen hours in making a single resin hilt, depending on how well the casting was, if the core worked well to make the slot, or if I need to build up nicked edges and tips with putty and then re-prime and paint. After the parts are ready to be put together, the assembly, touch-ups, and packing for most models is about 3-4 hours. In total, about 20 hours for one resin Master Sword.
What’s the pricing?
Pricing can be found on the order page!
What’s all included in the Kit?
The Kit includes:
- Raw castings of hilt, pommel, gems, and tongs
- Fully machined stainless steel blade, with edges and engravings
- Oak halves for the handle, black tape, blue vinyl and green lace
- Nut and bolt to attach the pommel to the handle
- Hobby white putty, epoxy, super glue, and instructions
- If you choose black braided leather, a braiding tool.
What tools or skills do I need to be able to make a Master Sword out of the Kit?
- Sandpaper, grits 200 and up, and the patience to use it.
- Paint, primer and colour. The best primer I’ve found that sticks to the resin is Plasti-kote.
- I use Duplicolor Ford Sonic Blue Pearl. For the purple variants, I do a very light overcoat with metallic purple over the blue.
- Use a file to remove the foam core slot that runs through the hilt, and clean up flat surfaces.
- If desired, you’ll want something to polish the blade with. Moving from sandpaper grits 600 to 1000 can give fantastic results.
- Hot glue gun for the handle wraps.
What materials are the hilt and pommel made out of?
The resin hilt and pommel are made out of Smooth-On Smooth-Cast 300 series liquid plastics. I’ve made silicone molds out of Smooth-On Rebound 25, Mold Max 30, and Mold Star 30, depending on the application. The bronze hilt and pommel are made out of a silicon bronze alloy.
How did you make the blade? What is it made out of?
All blades are made with the stock removal method. The perimeter of the blade is cut out of 3/16″ sheet or bar stock and then the edges, tip bevel and engravings are milled on a CNC machine. All stainless blades are made from 316L stainless steel. The next batch of high-carbon tempered steel blades will be made out of 3/16″ thick A2 tool steel. The blade shown on Zelda Universe was made from O2 tool steel.
How sharp is the blade?
All stainless and high-carbon blades are not sharpened beyond the machining at the CNC machine. The best comparison would be to a pair of shears. Even so, the tip of the sword and points near the hilt can be very dangerous.
Is this sword full tang?
Yes, the tang of the sword is the same piece of material as the blade and slots through the hilt and about 5″ down the oak handle, and is held in place with shims and epoxy. The last inch of the oak handle houses a bolt that attaches to the pommel, and they are joined permanently with epoxy.
How big and heavy and/or balanced is this sword?
The resin models are about 4 lbs, and the bronze models are over 7 lbs. These are very heavy compared to a typical real-world sword. Each is about 42″ overall length. The balance on the resin models is very blade-heavy, and the balance of the bronze models is much closer to the hilt.
Do I have to worry about rust?
On the stainless blades, no. On the high-carbon blades, yes! All high-carbon blade swords will come with a container of antiques wax that will help protect your blade from errant fingerprints and the rust/corrosion that they bring. On cast bronze parts, the powder coating protects the oxidation.
Are those golden bits really actually gold?
The gems and tong on the bronze hilts are gold-plated pewter. The pewter is cast, sanded, and polished, plated with a few think layers of copper, and then plated with a few thin layers of gold.
Can I use this to break pots / cut grass / fend off the ReDead?
If you have a stainless model, the edge will not hold up well to abuse. If you have the high-carbon model, you may damage the finish and risk rust. The gems and tongs are attached with epoxy and shims, but may come loose with a blade strike. Because the pommel is not welded to the tang, there is a risk that the oak handle could crack and the pommel comes loose. Simply, I recommend against it. Be a wise wielder of the Master Sword.
Do you make sheaths/scabbords?
I’ve had this requested a number of times, and I made some design progress, but ultimately decided against offering them because of the effort involved of making a really good, functional, ornate sheath. However…
Do you make pedestals?
Yes! They are concrete, with a Triforce emblem on the front. The slot for the sword is lined with leather to protect and hold the sword in place. A steel gasket on the top gives it a clean look. If you’d like only a pedestal without a sword, drop me an e-mail at firstname.lastname@example.org
Where / when can I order one?
Head on over to the order page!