Frequently Asked Questions
What’s the current wait time / lead time for a replica?
New designs take longer than current designs, and sometimes I’m in the middle of a run. Typically, the wait for a current design is 2-6 months. For a new design, I have have the CAD groundwork ready for approval in 4-8 weeks, and the replica ready in about 4-8 months. Orders are first-come, first serve depending on deposit, but if you need it by a certain date, I’ll try to accommodate.
How long does it take you to make one of these? How many man-hours?
It’s easy to sink over a few dozen hours in the early CAD stages to help save time with fabrication down the line. Creating items in batches helps a lot too. It’s easy to expect any one replica to take tens of hours of preparation, logistics, finishing, and QA before assembly and packing.
What’s the pricing of this one thing I saw you made?
Pricing for most items can be found on the contact page!
What’s all included in your DIY Kits?
The DIY Kit is in the store, and the full description is right there.
What tools or skills do I need to be able to put together the DIY Kit?
Sandpaper, grits 200 and up, and the patience to use it.
A nice file, about 1/8” thick.
I use Duplicolor Ford Sonic Blue Pearl. For the purple variants, I do a very light overcoat with metallic purple over the blue.
If desired, you’ll want something to polish the blade with. Moving from sandpaper grits 600 to 1000 can give fantastic results, when followed up by a polishing compound like Peek or Flitz.
Hot glue gun for the handle wraps.
What are your blades made of? How to you temper them?
All blades are made with the stock removal method. The perimeter of the blade is cut out of 3/16″ sheet or bar stock 5160 spring steel. The edges, tip bevel and engravings are milled on a CNC machine. All stainless blades are made from 316L stainless steel. Previously, blades have been made of A2 or O2 tool steel. Blades heat treated and tempered to 56-58 HRC.
How sharp are your blades?
All stainless and high-carbon blades are not sharpened beyond the machining at the CNC machine. The best comparison would be to a pair of shears. Even so, the tip of the sword and points near the hilt can be very dangerous.
Are your swords full tang?
In general, yes. The tang of the sword is the same piece of material as the blade and slots through the cross-guard and about 5″ down the oak handle, and may be held in place with pins and epoxy depending on the design. Some designs have a welded-on threaded rat-tail.
How big and heavy and/or balanced is this sword?
Typically, they are very heavy (5-10 lbs) and balance is secondary to aesthetics.
How do the Tempered Steel and Stainless Steel variants compare?
Visually speaking they are identical. In fact, the only way I can usually tell the difference is if I use a magnet. The tempered blades are magnetic and the stainless ones are not. The price difference comes from the extra step of tempering the carbon blades, and the material being more expensive. From a martial weapon perspective, the tempered blade stays sharper longer and it is the more accurate real world material. You will need to maintain the tempered blade with light waxing about twice a year, and prevent any moisture to prevent rust. A supply of wax is included!
Do I have to worry about rust?
On the tempered blades, yes. On the stainless blades, not so much. All tempered swords come with a container of antiques wax that will help protect your blade from errant fingerprints and the rust/corrosion that they bring. If a fingerprint lands on either type of blade, be sure to wipe it away ASAP. Remember that a high-carbon blade requires some amount of care and commitment to maintain, so choose wisely.
Can I use this to break pots / cut grass / fend off the ReDead?
If you have a stainless model, the edge will not hold up well to abuse. If you have the high-carbon model, you may damage the finish and risk rust. The gems and tongs are attached with epoxy and steel dowels, but may come loose with a blade strike. Because the pommel is not welded to the tang, there is a risk that the oak handle could crack and the pommel comes loose. Simply, I recommend against it. Be a wise wielder of the Master Sword.
Do you make sheaths/scabbards?
My answer before was No. My answer now is yes! Visit the store to join in the pre-order.
Do you make pedestals?
Yes! They are concrete, with a Triforce emblem on the front. The slot for the sword is lined with leather to protect and hold the sword in place. A steel gasket on the top gives it a clean look.